2020 'Clos des Briords' Muscadet
Domaine de la PépièreMarc Ollivier of Domaine de la Pépière, from the appellation of Muscadet Sèvre et Maine, is one of the great vignerons of the Loire Valley. Ollivier's reputation comes from the vibrancy and density of his wines which reflect their terroir, which for most of his vineyards is granite, one of the less common terroirs for Muscadet, ac- counting for only 5% of the appellation. These are truly captivating wines and some of the best in the Loire Valley. Domaine de la Pépière is a standout in the region for several reasons. Access to old vines on the rare Clisson ter- roir, which has granitic subsoil. The granitic subsoil gives structure to his Muscadets which have the capacity to age gracefully for many years.
The vines are old, some over 70 years and all are planted 'selection massale'. Selection massale is an ancient and laborious method of replanting by taking the cuttings from the old and best vines. It takes about four years to produce a quarter of the number of vines of the initial cuttings.
An old-vines cuvee of Muscadet from a single plot vineyard planted in schist. These are among the oldest vines in Marc’s estate (they were planted in 1930) and enjoy a particularly good exposition. It is very mineral and quite austere in its youth, rather than fruity and light. Over a few months, or even years, if one can wait for it, it develops much complexity in aromatics and structure.
Loire Valley, France